The Annapurna Circuit: A Modern Trekker's Guide
Roads have changed the Annapurna Circuit, but it remains one of the world's great treks. Here's how to plan it today.
The Annapurna Circuit circles the Annapurna massif in central Nepal, climbing from subtropical rice terraces to the high, dry landscapes of Manang and over the Thorong La pass at 5,416 m, before descending into the deep Kali Gandaki gorge.
A changing trail
Road building has reached many parts of the circuit, and some sections now share their route with jeeps. The good news: a network of alternative walking trails (often marked as NATT routes) keeps trekkers off the roads for much of the way. With a little planning, it’s still a wonderful walk.
Permits and guides
You’ll need an Annapurna Conservation Area Permit. Since 2023, Nepal has required most foreign trekkers in its national parks and conservation areas to trek with a licensed guide. Rules and enforcement have changed several times, so check the latest regulations before you go.
Teahouses
The circuit is a teahouse trek: simple lodges provide a bed and meals all the way round. You don’t need a tent or stove, which keeps packs light. Dal bhat — rice, lentils and vegetables, with refills — will become your fuel.
Acclimatisation
The Thorong La is serious altitude. Spend at least one or two acclimatisation days in Manang, take the side hikes to places like the Ice Lake or Gangapurna Lake, and follow the guidance in Hiking at High Altitude. Cross the pass early in the morning, before the wind picks up.
Worthwhile side trips
- Tilicho Lake — one of the highest lakes of its size in the world.
- Poon Hill — a classic sunrise viewpoint at the end of the trek.
- Upper Pisang trail — the high route with sweeping views of Annapurna II.